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About Greg Scholl
Expertise
Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings,wood species recognition,usage,etc.

Experience
Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.

Organizations
none at this time.

Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well

Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.

Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.)
Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Hobbies > Woodworking > Woodworking > floor refinishing

Woodworking - floor refinishing


Expert: Greg Scholl - 10/21/2009

Question
I put Minwax oilbased stain on my oak floor and after 24 hrs it is still tacky.  I did not take off enough of the stain.  What can I do now?  Can I proceed with the poly before the stain is completely dry?

Answer
Hi Ruby, you can only use Minwax stain on bare wood, meaning NO traces of old finish. This means the floors have to be sanded with a floor sander in preparation for staining and finishing...if you use it over a floor with an existing finish...even just traces of an old finish...it will not dry properly, if at all. And yes, it also needs to be wiped off well after application. One must resist the urge to apply it heavily.....all this info is on the label, and it really is an important step in any project to read, understand, and follow all the directions, precautions and warnings on the product.Now you're going to have to wash the floor with mineral spirits and plenty of rags to remove as much of the stain as possible, and the best way to do that unfortunately, is on ones knees.......it's a big job.Post back if need be- regards- Greg

Hi Ruby, everything I told you was correct, so being "half right" is a bit of a crock, and a "5" rating seems a bit spiteful(no one has ever given me a 5)......if you've applied Minwax stain over a finished floor, it won't dry fully, mark my words, and especially if you didn't clean and prep the floor before applying it.....by the time you went to wipe it off with dry rags,(you indicated it was at least 24hrs.), I bet that not much came off, and it was a sticky mess....so you haven't removed it...and whether you think it's dry or not, when you go to apply the Poly, the solvent in the Poly is going to melt the excess Minwax as you apply it, and you're going to have a problem, and likely a blotchy mess.The stain will mix with the Poly as you apply it, preventing the Poly from drying correctly as well. You therefore risk adhesion problems of the Poly, so even if you get it to dry, it will probably scrape off easily, color and all, and not be durable in the least.....your floor "expert" should have told you these things, and I'm sorry, if he's advising you to do this, he's wrong......but you'll see as you plunge forward, I guess. Best of luck- you'll know what to do when the job fails- call in a Pro and have it done correctly,($) because at that point you won't be able to fix it.....

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