Question QUESTION: Hello, I need some advice for my teak wood kitchen table. This table is 20 years old and has been oiled with linseed oil and turpentine in the past. My father was visiting this past week and thought he would help me out by redoing my kitchen table. I asked him what he did and he steel wooled it first and cleaned it up and then he used linseed oil along with mineral spirits 50 - 50 combined. My chairs are very sticky including my table is half dry in spots. What should I do? I am afraid it is ruined and I have had this table for a long time and it's in great condition.
Thanks,
Heidi
ANSWER: Hi Heidi, it will likely dry, but could take several days to a week. I'm assuming he has use boiled linseed oil, and not Raw. If he used raw, it may never dry fully.....in this day and age, there are many better choices like Watco Danish oil, or a Teak oil, or even WaterLox. These formulations have added resins and dryers to produce a harder finish and dry predictably....hope that helps a little- post back if need be- Greg
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QUESTION: Hi Greg,
It has been 4 days now and major parts areas of the table surface are still very sticky and not appearing to dry. Also, the chairs are sticky and not drying. Is there a way to strip the table to refinish, or can it be sanded again with steel wool. I am concerned about sanding because of how sticky it still is.
Thanks for all your help,
Heidi
Answer You can take some mineral spirits and rags and wipe down the chairs and table to remove the excess oil...I would not use any steel wool as it's too sticky, but you could use a ScotchBrite pad...(synthetic steel wool), but a rag saturated in mineral spirits will remove most of it, dry with a clean rags as you go and work in overlapping sections.....then let them dry another day or so. A fan will help that process. Again, if he used Raw linseed oil, it was a wrong choice and can take forever to dry....the worst case scenario is that you will have to use stripper to strip off everything and start over...the good news is that I can help.......REMEMBER to dispose of any rags used in an oil finish PROPERLY, they can spontaneously combust...Greg
Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings,wood species recognition,usage,etc.
Experience
Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.
Organizations none at this time.
Publications Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well
Education/Credentials Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.
Past/Present Clients Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.) Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.