Aboutmaura macaluso Expertise I can answer all questions regarding woodcarving, chip carving, scroll sawing, carving tools and techniques and can answer most questions regarding wood. I am not an appraiser of carvings nor an antique dealer.
Experience I am a custom commission woodcarver. I have been carving for many years now, have won numerous awards, and am very well connected in the world of woodcarving. I am the owner/operator of www.carvinginnyc.com
Organizations national association of woodcarvers, woodcarvers of queens, Richmond county carvers club, carving life panel of experts
Publications Chip chats, carving magazine
Education/Credentials Have taken many, many classes and instruction from many fine carvers, I was originally self taught which is the best way to learn. Many thousands of carving hours later and I find that I am now well-respected.
Awards and Honors best of show staten island & queens
numerous 1st place and other title awards at many venues
Past/Present Clients My work is now in international collections
Hi - I am refinishing my partner's great great grandfather's table. I don't know what kind of wood it is. I removed the shellac with alcohol and painstakingly sanded (60, 80, 120, 150, 220, 400) and carefully looked to see that there were no remaining circles from the orbital sander. I sanded the last couple of times by hand. After putting on 1 coat of tung oil, I noticed irregularities in the wood's surface. Could this possibly be from my sanding job or do you think it's the wood? Do I let it go or re-sand?
Answer Hi Molly, While I can not see your problem well, I am most apt to think that the irregularities are caused by the action of the orbital sander. Orbital sanders are notorious for causing the problem, while at the same time, are the more aggressive sanders. The action of an orbital sander being worked by the human hand causes the sander to rock a bit with each stroke leaving uneven levels in the surface of the wood. In your effort to remove stains or discolorations, more time was spent in some areas than others, combined with the rocking action of the orbital sander, causing hills and valleys in the table top. I do not think it is the wood itself unless what is happening is that the grain of the wood, which is composed of rows of wood fiber and resin(dried sap) is wearing unevenly. The wood fibers are softer than the resin. From the picture you've included, I do think it is the sander causing you the problem. It is a pretty good sized slab which will be fine if sanded again. This time I suggest you use a non-orbital level bottom palm sander, starting at 120 grit working your way back up through the finer grits. It would be nice if it all could just be run through a planer but of course it is too big to even consider this. Attention to detail and hand checking with a steel ruler will help you find the high spots. Take a metal yardstick and lay it on its edge across the table. Shine a flashlight beam where the ruler sits on the table and check on the other side to see if you see any light leaking through. Once you remove all the high spots with the 120, evenly go over the table with the finer grits, first going in over the width, then going over the length, not spending anymore time in one area than another. Before applying any finish check the job by wetting it down with a spray bottle of water. This will serve two purposes, first it will make imperfections easier to see and also raising the grain. Go over it one final time at the finest grit, remove all the sanding dust, and feel it with your palm. Your palm is sensitive enough to sense when it is not right. If all is good, then apply your finish. Thanks for the question and good luck with your project.
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