About John Burzenski Expertise I can answer 99% of your framing related questions for both wood and metal stud framing. I currently manage a framing division the employ`s over 25 carpenters. I estimate both material and labor for projects up to 120,000 square feet. All of my work experience has been on the East Coast.
Experience I have been involved construction for 20 years. I worked in the feild as a framer for over 15 years. I currently manage a large framing operation.We have built numerous multi-story buildings from both wood and metal stud.
Question Hi John,
Hope you can help!
Live in Scotland and have bought reclaimed teak flooring - I reckon about 1" thick or so.
Trying to cut down costs and fit ourselves - dad has worked a lot with wood and I think we can cope but need a few pointers.
Can you give us a few tips?
Someone suggested lifting the chipboard and fixing the teak onto the joists to prevent us having to take a bit off all the doors. Also only laying in the hall and lounge so need to prevent a step betweem rooms as much as possible.
I have ordered the correct tool from HSS - floor nailer.
I take it we start from a wall - one joiner said we would start from the focal point of the room which would be the bay window - i.e the centre of the room, not the wall.
How due we mask the gap from hardwood to carpet/tyles.
Please give any other tips.
Look forward to your response. Getting wood on Tuesday need so it would be great if you could respond quickly.
Many thanks
Gaynor
Answer Gaynor,
I do not recommend removing the sub-floor ( Chip Board?)If the Teak flooring you are installing has a tongue and a grove machined into it. The way I address the finished floor elevations is with a wood saddle or reducer strip fabricated out of the same species of wood that is used on the floor. Use saddles at the door ways and reducer strips floor finish change in large openings or rooms.
I use a flooring nailer to install tongue and grove flooring typically not wider than 6" in width, this method shows no viable fasteners. For larger width flooring I have screwed and plugged the floor planks.
I typically lay out my installation from the Focal point as well. I will also look for the longest run of the floor. (RE: The last house I did had the entire first floor installed as white oak 2 1/4" strip flooring. The home was approximately 100' long with many rooms that came together in more than one door opening. I looked for the longest visible line of sight and started from that area. I snapped a chalk line the entire length of the house and started the installation from that point working toward the exterior walls in both directions.)
I roll back the wall to wall carpet where the wood floor will meet and install the wood floor. Then reinstall the carpet to the wood for a tight fit. The tile you will just have to take your time and cut carefully, don't force the wood into place.
The most valuable advice I can give you is to let the wood acclimate to the conditions of your home prior to installing it. I would stack the wood loosely for a minimum of five days to allow the moisture content in the wood to adjust to the moisture content of your home.
